 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Last update - 9/17/04 Content Provider: Jim Orsborn Copyright © 2004 STCA |
 STCA Information Pamphlet
|
|
|
The STCA was founded in 1900 and is the parent club of the breed in this country. [See also Who Are We?]
The three major objectives of the STCA are:
Regional Clubs have been established to promote the same objectives at the local level. These clubs are made up of breeders, exhibitors, companion dog owners and anyone else who loves the Scottie. It is the Regional Club that provides the majority of functions and activities in which members may participate. Contact the club nearest you and let them know you have received the STCA Information Pamphlet. They will be happy to assist you in any way they can.
If you have purchased a puppy, are about to, or are showing
a dog; becoming active in a Regional Club will give you a
chance to meet other members.
[See also Regional Club
Listing]
Information about membership in the STCA may be obtained
from the Corresponding Secretary whose name and address are on
the Officers web page. You will need two sponsors that are
current members.
[See also Membership]
[See also Officers & Directors]
The STCA does not make recommendations concerning breeders and can only provide a list of members in good standing in your area, if requested.
Do You Really Want to Own a
Dog?
So you have decided to purchase a dog. Owning a dog can either be the beginning of years of happiness or the beginning of overwhelming responsibility for which you are not prepared. Your first task is to ask yourself some serious questions to determine if you are ready to become a dog owner. Answer honestly to insure yourself, am your dog, the future you both deserve. Keep the following questions in mind.
|
Do I really want a dog? |
 |
The Breed For You: Is there a breed you have had your eye on, or are you confused about how to select a dog? In either case you should do some homework to make sure that you select the right dog for you and your family. Remember to consider your dog’s lifestyle, too. For research, consult the resources at your local library.
Owning a dog is a big responsibility! Talk to breeders; ask them lots of questions; we all know there are no stupid questions. A responsible breeder will eagerly answer your questions and share his or her experience and knowledge with you.
How much does a puppy cost? This is not the time to hunt for a bargain. Your new puppy will be a member of your family for his lifetime, upward to 12 years, so you'll want to make a wise investment. Ask several breeders about cost to get an estimate of the market rate.
Can you afford a puppy? The purchase price of your puppy is not the only cost you have to consider. Be aware that the puppy you bring home will need proper care: a dog needs annual shots and, when old enough, a dog should be spayed or neutered. Your puppy will also need little things like a collar with identification, a leash, and, of course, good quality food and bowls for food and water. A Scottie also needs regular grooming.
Evaluate your budget; ask yourself if you really can afford a dog.
Scottie Characteristics
and Temperament
The Scottish Terrier is first and foremost a Terrier. They typify “power in a small Package” exhibit typical terrier temperament, alert and active, making the Scottie a loyal watchdog and companion. They are classified as one of the short-logged terrier breeds. Their hard-coated muscular body is set on short, powerful legs with a proportionally long head. These characteristics, along with their keen, piercing expression and their erect ears and tail, provide the most obvious features of the breed.
 |
Scotties were first exhibited as a pure breed in 1859, but it is not certain
just what breeds were used to create this feisty little dog. It is certainly
related to the West Highland White and the Cairn Terriers, which are also from
the northern part of the British Isles.
The Scottie is extremely sensitive to praise and blame. Properly bred, trained and respected, he is a gentleman and devoted companion to both man and child. His independent spirit may not be suitable for every taste, but to those who appreciate his unique character, no other breed compares. |
Grooming: To maintain his distinguished appearance, the coat of the companion dog should be clipped every two months. The dog who is being exhibited at dog shows has his coat “stripped.” The dead hairs are removed at regular intervals by plucking with the fingers or by the use of a stripping knife. This is necessary because the terrier coat does not shed like many breeds. The coat should be brushed several times a week.
Scotties come in three basic colors.- black, brindle and wheaten. Brindles and wheatens are the original colors of the breed and both come in many shades of these colors. It is understandable that people have preferences as to the color of their Scottie; you should not, however, overlook a wonderful dog just because ha may not be the color you think you would like to have.
Buy your puppy from a responsible and well-respected breeder. This cannot be stressed enough. An experienced breeder is the best source for a well-bred, healthy dog. To begin with, breeders carefully select the parents of each litter to emphasize desirable attributes and minimize faults in their progeny. Breeders are committed to improving breed soundness - both physical and mental health - with every new generation.
Furthermore, buying from a breeder means that you’re a part of an extended family. Breeders will be available to answer questions about your dog and are well-versed in information about the breed.
Don’t be afraid to ask questions. Be prepared. Ask about whether there are any genetic problems within this particular line of breeding. You should have a good feeling about the breeder, that the breeder is being honest and straightforward, not evasive. A good breeder will not sell you a puppy until he is certain that the Scottie is really the breed for you. He will ask many questions of you to ensure that the puppy will be going to a proper home, such as:
You want to be sure that the breeder is someone who is concerned about the welfare of the puppies and dogs.
The good breeder will have a clean, well-lighted environment for the puppies. His puppies will be fat, clean, friendly and free from parasites. He will properly socialize and immunize his puppies and not sell them until they are 10-12 weeks old. He will provide a healthy environment for his adult dogs as well.
A reputable breeder normally belongs to a regional or national breed club and is well thought of throughout the fancy. Occasionally, a new breeder may not yet have joined a breed club; in such cases, however, the new breeder should have references from breed club members. For more information on selecting a Breeder, consult the section on “Good Breeding Practices” towards the end of this document.
| You should tell the breeder whether you are interested in purchasing a pet or
a dog for show. If your main concern is to find a suitable companion for
yourself and your family, then your emphasis should be on health and
temperament.
If you are interested in a dog for show or breeding, you should try to find the best specimen of the breed that you can afford, and you may wish to consider an older puppy or young adult with obvious potential. Not only should health and temperament be part of your criteria, but also those often subtle physical characteristics that cause one individual to stand out over all others. |
 |
When you select a puppy, the breeder should give you information on care and feeding, a current health certificate, a registration application from the AKC, a three-generation pedigree and a bill of sale. You should have your own veterinarian examine the happy within 48-72 hours. If the veterinarian detects any physical problem or concern, the breeder should be willing to replace the puppy or refund your money.
Many breeders sell their pet stock on spay/neuter or other non-breeding agreements. Novice owners are not usually equipped with the knowledge for breeding and rearing puppies and should leave this to the experts.
Choosing the right puppy and, more importantly, the right breeder, can help to ensure future years of happiness for you, your family and your new companion.
| When you take your puppy home, remember that he is alone now, without littermates or mother. He is in a different environment and all of this is new and strange; new people, a new place to sleep and new surroundings to adjust to. Make it an easier adjustment for him by giving the same food, and a toy or two similar to those he left behind. If you have young children of your own, be sure to supervise them so they do not frighten, exhaust or harm your new puppy. Think of your new puppy just as you would if you had a new baby to care for. |  Remember to make that important visit to your veterinarian within the first 48-72 hours after bringing him home. |
IMMUNIZATIONS
Before being sold, a puppy should have had at least two shots for Parvo, Distemper, Hepatitis, Para influenza and Leptospirosis. Reputable breeders will insist that these shots be given before letting a puppy go to a new home. That is generally why they usually do not release a puppy before it is 10 to 12 weeks of age. If you are buying an older dog, 6 months or more of age, a detailed note of these shots should be included in the health records given to you at the time of purchase.
Most breeders recommend that you have at least 4 shots against the diseases just mentioned, with the last shot given at or after 16 weeks of age. Thereafter, a yearly renewal of the immunization (booster shot) should be given to continue protection against these most serious communicable diseases. A vaccination against Rabies is required by law in most parts of the U.S. in order to obtain the necessary license (dog tag). Your veterinarian is the best source of information on this, as on all health matters.
PUPPY HOUSETRAINING
The following are some important tips that may aid in training your new puppy.
If possible, avoid indoor paper training. This can develop into a difficult habit to break when it is no longer desired. If you must train indoors, always have clean papers available, preferably those designed for the purpose.
When leaving puppy alone and during the night, place puppy in a training crate (following section). A puppy will not urinate or defecate in his crate if it is used properly. Do not buy a crate too large or the puppy will simply potty in the corner. A training crate is your single best investment.
Provide fresh water at all times except during the last night hours.
Total housebreaking can take up to two months or longer. The key to successful puppy training is to he consistent and persistent.
HAPPINESS IS A DOG CRATE
You may wish to use a dog crate to help in the housetraining process. The correct use of a dog crate can give your puppy the chance he needs and deserves to be a happy, appreciated family member.
A dog crate is a rectangular enclosure with a top and a door, available in a range of sizes and constructed of wire, wood, metal, plastic or molded fiberglass. A good size for Scotties is a 24”L x 18”W x 21”H wire crate or a #200 Vari-Kennel (plastic). It may look like a “cage” to you, but it’s very soon home to your dog. For him, it’s a “den” of his very own. He is not afraid or frustrated when closed in; rather, he prefers having his life structured and controlled.
Humanely used, a dog crate offers many advantages for you and your dog. You can enjoy peace of mind when leaving your dog home alone, knowing that nothing can be soiled or destroyed. You can housebreak your dog more quickly by using the close confinement to encourage control, establish a regular routine for outdoor elimination and to prevent “accidents” overnight or when left alone. You can keep him out from underfoot if there are workmen in the house or if he’s just too excitable at times. You can travel with him safely in his portable house.
The use of a dog crate, however, is not recommended for a dog which must be frequently or regularly left alone for extended periods of time - such as all or much of the day while the owner is away at work. (A puppy should not be left crated for more than four hours at a time, except for nighttime.) If extended crating of an adult attempted (and some dogs do adapt to hours at a time), the dog must be given lots of exercise before and after crating, plus lots of personal positive attention, and be allowed complete freedom at night (including sleeping near his owner). His crate must be large enough to permit him to comfortably stretch out on his side and have freedom of movement. The crate must also have a slip-on dish for water.
Crate or no crate, any dog constantly denied the human companionship it needs and craves is going to be a lonely pet - and may still find ways to express anxiety, depression and general stress.
A crate should always be large enough to permit any age dog to lit down and sit up without hitting his head. The crate should be placed so that the dog still feels part of the family - in “people” areas such as the kitchen or family room. Put it in a corner or (if it is not the solid type) cover the top and sides loosely with a towel or blanket so that he can still see out and get air. You can even use the top of the crate as a shelf. Do keep the crate away from drafts and direct heat sources.
A young puppy (10-16 weeks) should have no problem accepting a crate as his own place. Any complaining he might do at first is caused not by the crate, but by his learning to accept the controls of his unfamiliar new environment.
Make it clear to the children that the crate is not a playhouse for them, but a special room for the puppy, whose rights should be recognized and respected. However, you should accustom the puppy from the start to letting you reach into the crate at any time, lest he become overprotective of it.
Establish a crate routine immediately, closing the puppy in at regular one- to two-hour intervals during the day (his own chosen nap times will guide you) and whenever he must be left alone for up to three or four hours. Give him a chew toy for distraction and be sure to remove collar and tag that might become caught in an opening.
One point to remember is never to put your pup in the crate as punishment; make it a normal activity, with no negative overtones.
If you do not choose, or are not able, to use a crate permanently, plan to use it for at least five or six months, or until the dog is well past the teething phase. Then start leaving the crate door open at night, when someone is at home during the day, or when he is briefly left alone. If all goes well for a week or two, remove the crate and leave the bedding in the same spot. Should any problem behavior occur at a future time, however (such as breaking housetraining), go back to the crate routine.
OBEDIENCE
It is a good idea for all dogs to have some basic obedience training. New owners are encouraged to take their dog to obedience classes and also to read about different training methods.
Because of their independent nature and desire to do things their own way, Scotties are not the easiest breed to train. It takes a lot of patience and determination on the part of the owner. They are extremely intelligent and, once they understand what you want and that you are going to insist they do it your way, they become good workers.
The Scottie is a proud sight to see, tail up, head high, with the self-assurance and jauntiness only a Scottie can show.
 |
These are some of the wrong reasons to breed your dog. You, of course, think your dog is absolutely perfect. And it is - for you, and as a pet. But perhaps it is not a model for future members of the breed. Having an AKC registration certificate is not an indication of a dog’s quality. |
Many breeders offer pet quality puppies for sale with the stipulation that the dogs be neutered or spayed when they reach the appropriate age. This is the breeder’s way of insuring breed improvement, by only allowing high-quality dogs to reproduce. The dog that you have is a result of many genetic factors and all of the environmental factors that have influenced him since birth. You are not going to produce a copy by breading him. Even the breeder, using the same parents and raising the puppies in the same way, can’t guarantee they will get just what they want out of a particular litter. Your chances are even slimmer. In fact, you could get an entire litter of puppies with all of your pet’s (and its mate’s) worst characteristics.
Some people feel that they must recover the money that they paid for their dog. They fail to recognize that the animal is valuable for it’s companionship and unfailing devotion, but instead look at it as a way to earn some easy money. The reality is that there is little money, but lots of time and care needed and, unfortunately, there are more dogs than there are home for. This has resulted in our present pet overpopulation problem. Many unwanted dogs (purebred and mixed breeds) are put to death every day because there are not enough homes. Because of this, relatable breeders are carefully limiting their breedings.
Male dogs even occasionally used at stud often start “marking territory” in the house and many become more aggressive. Before using him, you want to ask yourself if possible changes in his behavior will be worth the aggravation. What he has never experienced he will never miss. How does he stack up to the “Standard” by which a quality specimen of the breed is measured? Has he been evaluated by someone experienced in showing and judging? And what about the bitches he may be bred to? Who will evaluate their worthiness to be bred? It is a big responsibility.
A female should also be evaluated by someone experienced in showing or judging in order to determine her desirable qualities. This evaluation has nothing to do with her worth to you as a companion, but only how she measures up to the “Standard.” Breeding takes a great deal of planning, an understanding of basic genetics, and a lot of pre-natal and post-natal care. You are totally responsible for the care of the mother and her litter until they are at least 12 weeks old and each one leaves in the arms of a new, loving owner. It is a big responsibility.
SHOULD I HAVE MY DOG SPAYED OR NEUTERED?
When there’s too much of a good thing, there’s a problem. In the case of dogs, it’s a problem of pet overpopulation. Each year, more than 12 million dogs and cats, puppies and kittens are turned in to animal shelters around the country. Some are lost, some are abandoned, some are unwanted, most are the result of irresponsible ownership and uncontrolled breeding. Sadly, nearly 8 million of these animals (including many purebreds) have to be euthanized because there aren't enough homes for all of them.
There are many health considerations for having your dog spayed or neutered. He can live a longer, healthier life and will be less likely to roam and fight. Spaying a female eliminates the possibility of uterine or ovarian cancer and greatly reduces the incidence of breast cancer. Neutering a male reduces the incidence of prostate and testicular cancer. It also ends the assorted problems related to having a female in season or unwanted responses of males.
“My pet will get fat and lazy.” The truth is that they become fat and lazy because their owners feed them too much and don't give them enough exercise.
“It's better to have one litter first.” There is no medical evidence that having a litter is good for your pet. In fact, the evidence indicates that females spayed before their first heat, at about six months, are healthier. Males can be neutered from about six months on. It's a good idea to check with your veterinarian about your own animals.
“But my pet is a purebred.” So are at least one-fourth of the animals brought to animal shelters around the country. There are just too many dogs - mixed breed and purebred.
“I'll find good homes for all the puppies.” The fact that shelters have to euthanize about 80 percent of the animals they take in indicates that there are not enough homes to go around. Even if you can find homes for the litter your pet produces, those are homes that will no longer be available for any of the millions of animals already born.
“My children should experience the miracle of birth.” Even if your children are able to see your pet give birth - which is unlikely, since it usually occurs at night and in seclusion - the lesson you will really be teaching is that animals can be created and discarded as it suits us. Instead, you should explain to your children that the real miracle is life and that preventing births of some pets can save the lives of others.
Diseases and Other Health Issues
VON WILLEBRAND'S DISEASE
Von Willebrand’s disease (VWD) is the most common, mild inherited bleeding disorder of man and animals and affects many breeds of dogs. In the Scottish Terrier, it is carried as an autosomal recessive gene. Clinical signs commonly include bleeding from the bowel or bloody diarrhea; bleeding from gums or into the urine; nosebleeds; and prolonged bleeding from cut nails, wounds or surgery. Bleeding episodes can begin as early as teething or not become apparent until a surgery is required. Bleeders can be born to adults who are both symptom-free, but carry a recessive gene for the disease. A dog that is a carrier of the gene does not have a bleeding problem.
On February 7, 1996, Michigan State University / University of Michigan Canine Genome Project announced that they had found the gene responsible for VWD in Scottish Terriers. A simple cheek swab method is used to obtain the DNA sample. The test is available through private testing laboratories and is available to all Scottie breeders. Contact the STCA Health Trust or your local veterinarian for more information. This test can easily identify potential breeding animals as:
- Affected (a bleeder)
- Carrier (with a single VWD gene but no symptoms) or
- Clear (no VWD genes).
SCOTTY CRAMP
Scotty Cramp is a disease peculiar to the Scottish Terrier. There is evidence that it is an inherited disease carried as a recessive autosomal trait. It first appears when the Scottie is about 6 months of age, but can appear as early as 6 to 8 weeks of age. After a short exercise (100 yards at a run or fast walk) the dog goes through a cycle of cramping and stiffness of the hind legs, then the body, which becomes drawn up and arched, then the forelegs, at which time he falls over. In a few seconds, with or without assistance, he recovers completely. The same exercise will bring back the same sequence. It is not a fatal disease and the Scottie can live a normal life span, however, a Scottie with this disease should never be used for breeding. A more detailed article on Scotty Cramp is available in The 1991 Handbook. See the Publications List to order.
INTERNAL PARASITES
All dogs require a routine worming program to stay healthy. A stool sample should be checked by your veterinarian at least once a year to help identify the types of worms present. Worming a dog should be put in the hands of your veterinarian.
GUIDE TO CANINE INFECTIOUS DISEASES
Perhaps the most loving, responsible thing you can do for your pet is see that he receives timely health care from your veterinarian. The following potentially fatal infectious disease can only be prevented by vaccination.
CANINE HEARTWORM DISEASE
Heartworm disease is found in particularly every area of the lower 48 states. It is transmitted from -infected dogs to non-infected ones by mosquitoes. Once infected, the immature heartworms slowly migrate to the heart, enter the blood vessels and become adults. Adults that live in the heart and blood vessels of the lungs can survive for years and cause heart and lung damage, coughing, lethargy and a tendency to tire easily. Treatment of the disease can be costly and difficult, but easy to avoid with preventive medication.
LYME DISEASE
Lyme disease is a bacteria that can be transmitted to dogs and man by ticks. Ask your veterinarian if this is a concern in your area and follow his recommendation. If you will be traveling to in area of the country that has a high incidence of Lyme Disease, ask what precautions you should take for your dog.
Your Veterinarian can give you a complete vaccination program designed to protect your dog against the deadly and disabling infectious diseases discussed here. As with any signs of illness, change in temperament or behavior, your veterinarian is the best source of help.
FLEA CONTROL
Unfortunately, fleas are difficult to eradicate and, with today’s fleas being resistant to many insecticides, their elimination has become more difficult than ever.
Your dog's best defenses against fleas (and other external parasites) are cleanliness and regular grooming. Keeping the dog, his quarters and his bedding clean and fresh will give parasites little chance to breed. Careful grooming will keep your pet's coat clean and free of snarls and matted spots which could become excellent flea breeding places.
The most important step in flea control is treating the environment where fleas as well as your dog. Fleas do not live on pets, they only feed on them. They spend 90% of their time off the pet. Treating the pet and not the environment is a waste of time and money and only contributes to developing resistant super fleas.
When treating your dog, whether with a shampoo, spray or powder, it is very important you always use the same brand. Using several different brands (which may contain completely different flea control ingredients) can cause cross contamination and could make your dog very ill and require you to seek help from your veterinarian.
Pest control, whether for those lurking inside or outside, should be
undertaken with extreme caution. Your veterinarian is the best source of
information on fleas and will carry products that work well in your area.
READ
ALL LABELS and, when in doubt, check with your veterinarian.
Flea treatment of pregnant or lactating bitches and puppies should only be done under the direction of your veterinarian as serious harm could be done to the puppies.
[See also Scottiephile]
AKC Sponsored Activities for Working Scotties
| There are a number of AKC activities in which you and your Scottie may wish to participate. These brief descriptions may give you an idea of what is involved. All of them can be fun for you and your dog, help build a stronger bond between you, and help your Scottie be better behaved. All of these activities are open to spayed or neutered dogs. They provide challenging new activities for retired champions as well. A variety of books and videos are available in most pet supply catalogs and some larger pet supply stores that detail many of these activities. |  |
Obedience
The new motivational methods of training now used in most classes, can allow the words “Scotties” and “obedience” to be used in the same sentence. Gone are the harsh commands, unexpected leash jerks, and regimented drilling. These have been replaced by positive reinforcement and creative, upbeat methods that can make it fun for both of you.
To find a good obedience instructor, get some suggestions from your local kennel club, your breeder, the Humane Society, Dog Show, Community Education Program, and your Veterinarian. Then you may wish to observe the class to see if they are using the newer methods. If the class is fun and the dogs seem happy, then your Scottie should be, too.
At the end of six to eight weeks of basic obedience, your dog should walk on a leash without pulling and should know the commands “Sit, Down, Stand, and Come.” However, your Scottie will likely still consider these commands to be optional, so you will still need to continue practicing.
There are five obedience titles in the AKC program: Companion Dog, Companion Dog Excellent, Utility Dog, Utility Dog Excellent, and Obedience Trial Champion. The dog must demonstrate a higher degree of training and skill at each level.
Agility
Dog Agility is a timed obstacle course. The handler runs with the dog, which is off lead, and directs the dog through a course made up of at least 12 obstacles, such as tunnels, jumps, see-saw, and A-frame. Scotties seem to thoroughly enjoy the challenge of agility activities.
There are several levels of training skills in Agility Training, and classes or workshops are offered by many local kennel clubs, or obedience clubs.
Earthdog
The original purpose for the Scottish Terrier, and many of the other short-legged terrier breeds, was for hunting vermin such as fox, badgers, otters, and rats. The new AKC Earthdog program involves working with these natural hunting instincts and training the dog for several possible skill levels.
For Earthdog training, tunnels (9' x 9') are constructed and partially buried. Dogs are encouraged to explore the tunnel. Caged pet rats or mice are placed at the end of the tunnel to simulate the hunt.
Various levels of training include: Introduction to quarry, Junior Earthdog, Senior Earthdog, and Master Earthdog. Earthdog training and trials are a safe but exciting new challenge for you and your dog.
Canine Good Citizen
The purpose of the Canine Good Citizen Test is to demonstrate that the dog, as a companion of man, can be a respected member of the community. This program was designed in response to the current anti-canine sentiment found in many areas of the country and is open to all dogs, including mixed breeds.
Through training, the dog must demonstrate confidence and control by completing ten steps:
appearance and grooming, accepting a stranger, walking on a loose lead, walk through a crowd, sit for exam, sit and down on command, stay in position, react to another dog, distractions, and dog left alone.
Training for this program includes many of the basic obedience activities. Contact your local kennel club, obedience club, Community Education program, or your Veterinarian for classes or testing in your area. If you are unable to find someone through these sources, AKC can provide you with the names of persons eligible to do testing.
Therapy Dog
Therapy dogs are dogs that visit nursing homes, hospitals, children's homes, and other places for the purpose of brightening up someone's day. Therapy dogs are there only to “visit” with people and help with that special bond between people and dogs. Many people have not had a dog for a long time, and others may never have owned one, but may share an appreciation for their companionship.
Dogs used for Therapy must be well mannered and have some basic obedience training. Training includes getting the Canine Good Citizen Certificate and then additional experience involving crutches, wheelchairs and walkers to qualify.
Therapy Dogs International currently has registered over 9,000 dogs. Therapy Dogs must pass all tests and comply with all rules and regulations of TDI, and must be well behaved dogs.
Most of the Regional Clubs have a Rescue Program to find good homes for unwanted or abandoned, or homeless Scotties. Occasionally, owners may reluctantly need to place their dog. Many have been picked up by shelters or Humane Societies and the owners are unable to be found. Yes, Purebred dogs are found in shelters, and the numbers are increasing each year. There are more dogs than there are good homes.
If you feel you can provide a good, loving home for a Scottie in need, contact the Regional Club Secretary that is nearest you for the name and number of the Rescue chairman. You will probably be asked to fill out an application form and answer questions to find out about your family and expectations in order to match the dog's needs with yours.
Most clubs will ask for a donation or adoption fee to help cover expenses, and most also require the dogs to be neutered or spayed. We all need to do what we can to help with the pet overpopulation problem, not to perpetuate it.
It is usually recommended that persons adopting a Scottie enroll in a basic obedience class. It not only provides you with move information and control of your new dog, but also strengthens the bond between you and your dog.
[See also Rescue] [See also Rescue Coordinator Listing] [See also Rescue FAQs]
Good Breeding Practices: Info
for Buyers and Breeders
The following practices are common to many reputable breeders. Though this list, compiled by The Scottish Terrier Club of America, is not all inclusive, these ideals are ones which you may wish to consider adopting as your own. These guidelines can also be used by someone looking to purchase a puppy.
[See also STCA Code of Ethics]
Conclusion and Other References
Additional Web site References
Ready?
Now that you have read up on Scotties and understand a bit more about their temperament and behavior, you may be ready to contact a reputable breeder. Don’t hesitate to go back over the qualities of a good breeder that can share their knowledge with you before and after you purchase your dog. Also remember that they will be trying to determine if you will be able to provide a suitable home for their dog.
A suggestion about messages left on answering machines: Do not expect that everyone will return your call. Some of these people may get a large number of calls, and it can be very time consuming and expensive to get back to everyone, especially if they do not have anything available. We recommend that you try again, and possibly at a different time of day.
Good Luck!
We hope that you have found this web page
full of useful information,
whether you are a prospective owner, first time Scottie owner,
or have had Scotties for many years.
Best Wishes to you
from
The Scottish Terrier Club of America.
